San Antonio de Areco: A taste of authentic gaucho culture

Think gaucho and your mouth may begin you water as you imagine Argentine beef. It’s not surprising that steakhouses worldwide have named themselves after the country’s national icon. Argentina’s very own cowboy has earned a special place in the national psyche for bravery, skilled horsemanship and cattle rearing. So now you’ve been to the steakhouse, where do you go to see the real thing?

San Antonio de Areco is a charming little town in the flatlands of the Pampa where gaucho traditions seamlessly blend in with modern life. While the main draw is clearly the nearby estancias, the town's well-preserved colonial buildings, cobbled streets and relaxed atmosphere make it a pleasant place to use as a base. We stayed at Paradores Draghi, a cute family-run guest house with an open court yard, pool and greenhouse breakfast room.    

True gaucho horsemanship at El Ombu

A visit to Parroquia San Patricio, the church on the main square gives you a sense of the prominent role that Irish immigrants played in forging the town's community and identity.

If you want to learn more about gaucho culture, Parque Criollo y Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes (free entrance, open 10.00-17.00), named after a renowned Argentine writer famous for his gaucho-themed novel Don Segundo Sombra, is excellent. There is also a fascinating collection of gaucho knives, silverwear, horse gear and leather goods attached to Paradores Draghi.

Dia de campo at Estancia El Ombú

While there are a few estancias in the vicinity, we decided to go to El Ombú, a 300-hectare working farm just 10 minutes by car from the town centre. It’s doable as a day-trip from Buenos Aires or you can stay the night.

The estancia’s namesake is derived from its proud resident, the evergreen Ombú tree. The tree, which is scattered around the pampa, is prized within Gaucho culture as its umbrella-like structure provides much-needed shade from the midday sun.

Upon arrival we were treated to unlimited drinks, alcoholic and soft varieties, and empanadas. We too sought refuge under the ombu tree before going for a pre-lunch horse ride for 20 minutes. Even if you’re not overly keen on horse riding, the horses were great; they were really tame and the gauchos did a great job in keeping them in line. Carriage rides are also available.

Traditional gaucho music, El Ombu

Lunch was a huge but delicious asado, Argentine BBQ, with probably the best chimichurri I've had in Argentina so far. Vegetarians are also catered for well.

After lunch, we heard traditional folksongs, followed by a mesmerising display of gaucho horsemanship, with the horse yielding to his every command.

A longer horse ride is available in the afternoon, but we decided to cool off in one of the two pools in the grounds. Save some room for tea and cake before you end a thoroughly relaxing day in the country.

Beyond the steakhouses and out into the Pampa, I can see why gauchos are the stuff of legend and folklore - a proud culture that has maintained a truly distinct identity.

More information:

El Ombu: AR$900 per person (~USD75) for everything, including horse riding

To find out more about El Ombú and overnight stays, visit: http://www.estanciaelombu.com/eombu.htm

For a list of other estancias near San Antonio de Areco, see: http://www.sanantoniodeareco.com/actividades/dia-de-campo