Top reasons to visit Cordoba… Or not?

If you had considered going on holiday to Cordoba, the second largest province in Argentina, then maybe you shouldn’t. Or then again maybe you should.

Good or bad, Cordoba Province’s tourist board must be delighted with all the recent publicity the province has received following the Presidential run-off last Sunday, 22 November. As one of the country’s oldest settlements, it is not short of attractions, not least the beautiful Sierras.

Even before our move to Buenos Aires, we had already planned a trip to the surrounding countryside of La Cumbre as our first holiday outside the metropolis. Yet, in the past few days the province has become the centre of a political battleground for reasons other than travel. 

This is after Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner’s ruling party, Front for Victory (FPV), lost power to Mauricio Macri, leader of opposition party Cambiemos (Let’s Change).   

Militant Kirchneristas were so affronted by their heaviest defeat in Cordoba Province - 71.51% votes for Macri, compared with 28.49% for FPV’s Daniel Scioli - that they launched a campaign urging people NOT to travel to Cordoba. 

Unbelievable. Not surprisingly, a counter-campaign was quick off the mark to promote the benefits of the province, notably as “the first province free of kirchneristas”.

Despite all the propaganda, hype and blatant incidents of fraud, while both in and soon-to-be out of power, what CFK has shown is that being a semi dictator does not work. Either be a dictator (which I do not advocate, just to clarify) or be a democracy – thankfully just over half of the electorate voted for the latter.

In just under 10 months, Argentina’s political landscape looks very different to when we first arrived in February 2015. And in fewer than 10 days times, Macri will assume power. What a great moment for Argentina, and most likely for Cordoba too.

Argentina’s elections 2015: The beginning of the end?

Sunday, 25 October 2015, was a decisive moment in Argentina. The Pumas, Argentina’s national rugby team, lost in the semis of the 2015 World Cup. Yet, at the voting stations and ballot boxes, something far greater was taking place. Argentines were voting for a new President. The results between the first and second forerunner were so unpredictably close that for the first time in Argentina’s history, voting has gone to a second-round run-off, or balotaje.

This has been one of the most fiercely contested presidential races in a country where politics have become so polarised. The country has become divided by the leftist Peronist movement, Front for Victory (FPV), with incumbent Cristina de Fernández Kirchner at the helm, and the opposition. What Peronism actually is and represents may be a subject for another post.  

Presidential elections Argentina 2015

The opposition

The opposition is most commonly represented by Mauricio Macri, a businessman, and leader of Republican Proposal, PRO. In other words, Macri's party would be the equivalent of the UK Conservative party. Sergio Massa, a former FPV member, formed his own party, Renewal Front, and came a respectable third but is out of the run-off. He would be most like the Liberals in the UK.       

So what's at stake? In a nutshell, from what I understand from friends and what we've seen and heard in the media, several people are desperate for change. After 12 years in power, life under the Kirchners has become hard for ordinary, middle-class people. 

- Inflation is high and estimated to reach about 25% this year (unofficially), although down from unofficial estimates of 40% in 2014 

- Only people who earn above a certain amount are able to convert a certain proportion of their salary into dollars, although they are charged a 20% tax for the privilege

- High export taxes on commodities like soya, one of Argentina's most successful products

- 35% tax on international purchases - we've been stung by this as we soon discovered when we bought an international flight on an Argentine credit card  

I speak as someone who has been in the country for only nine months, so I am no gospel on the matter. Yet, my husband and I have been just as caught up in the ensuing drama as Argentines. 

To win in the first round, the front-runner needed to gain 45% of the vote outright or by 40% and to beat the second-place candidate by at least 10%. In the August primaries, Scioli gained 38.4%, with Macri in second place with just over 30%. Therefore, it seemed a foregone conclusion that Scioli would win outright on Sunday. 

So close

Although many had hoped, few had expected that the results would have been so close, let alone going to a run-off. And this was not just between Scioli and Macri. FPV suffered heavy losses in key provincial posts, especially in Buenos Aires province. To many people's surprise and joy, PRO's María Eugenia Vidal, currently Deputy Mayor of Buenos Aires City, was announced governor. 

Shock, jubilation, tears - the whole spectrum of emotions were felt when it became clear that there would indeed be a run-off. Of course, a run-off seemed so inconceivable that it was scheduled during the bank holiday weekend on Sunday 22 November. So in true Argentine fashion, the current bank holiday has been cancelled, with less than a month's notice, and moved to the following weekend.      

While I have no say in the final outcome, I'm delighted for my friends and for the country overall as change is on its way, irrespective of who wins. The people have spoken and may they do so again on 22 November - with conviction, courage and do what’s right for the country.   

Blur in Buenos Aires: Brilliant show girls & boys

Blur’s performance in Buenos Aires last night was still Britpop at its best, 27 years after their formation and despite an interlude of going their separate ways. With a mix of classic hits and new songs, and a great instrumental set, Blur had all the elements that a rock band should have, according to one newspaper review.

Blur in Buenos Aires 11.10.15

We were originally due to see Foals, another British band, on the Saturday night. However, Foals cancelled. On a whim, never having seen Blur in my youth, my husband and I not only wanted to see this legendary band, but also how Blur would be received by the Porteños.

Playing at Tecnópolis, the venue was almost full, with 10-12,000 Blur fans eagerly anticipating the opening number. And there is was, “Go On”, from the group’s new album The Magic Whip. For a band making a comeback, I think the new album is very good. But what do I know... 

At one point, Damon Albarn claimed he had hurt his knee the previous night (maybe at the gig in the city of Cordoba). Still, he moved pretty energetically across the stage, spraying the crowd with water and even sang happy birthday to one very pleased fan.

I felt like a teenager again, jumping up and down to Park Life and swaying to Tender. The highlight was probably Song 2 and Girls & Boys. Unfortunately, Country House did not make the cut, but The Universal was a satisfactory finale.

Ultimately, Blur did what it does best, belting out powerful rhythmic beats uhhhhh uh uhhhhhh uh uh uh uhhhh uhhhh uhhhhh. Woooooooohoooooooo. 

Upstream BA: Tigre and the Paraná Delta

Tigre and the Paraná Delta, one of The Rough Guide to Argentina's top 28 things not to miss, was high on my itinerary. It has attained celebrity status, with the likes of Madonna visiting the area. After eight months of being in BA, the journey was beckoning. 

Just one hour north of Buenos Aires, Tigre is a quaint city that is the gateway to the River Paraná. While the city is a draw in itself, we wanted to explore the waterways further afield. For my husband, who is an ecologist and biologist, this was a place we simply had to visit.

Relaxing in the Parana Delta

For just AR$3 (equivalent to roughly 20p; there is also a more expensive, though scenic, costal train) we were able to get the train from Retiro train station in BA, to Tigre. While many things in Buenos Aires are stupidly expensive, like electronics, crockery and towels (of all things) public transport is ridiculously cheap.

Mississippi eat your heart out

     

I have never been to the Mississippi delta, but I imagine the Paraná Delta, with its crisscross of water trails, would give it a run for its money. It was as if time had stood still, with a once glorious era intertwined with the present day. British and European influences were still evident with several signs in English, such as the one for the local Rowing Club.

At Tigre we boarded a lancha (river boat - AR$310 return for two people) to take us to our B&B, Hosteria Los Pecanes. We seemed to be the only holiday makers on board; most of the passengers were locals going about their business. We picked up a boy who was going to school during the afternoon shift and dropped him further down the river, while a few other folk got on and off.

Unfortunately, despite being in the midst of a vast nature reserve, several locals saw it fit to simply chuck beer cans and food wrappers into the waters.

Los Pecanes 

  

As we cruised along the river, we saw some impressive mansions on stilts, others which had seen better days, some built up on soil brought to the region and others which appeared to be floating on the river. It took an hour and a half to get to Los Pecanes, which is on River Estudiantes.

Los Pecanes is run by Richard and his wife, Ana-Maria, who both speak excellent English, and their three dogs: Hercules, Chiquita and Kinny. Admittedly, there is not a huge amount to do, but if you’re looking for a few days of rest and tranquility not far from BA, this is a perfect spot. Even better if you’re a bird lover.

Picaflor feeding time

A real highlight for both me and my husband was seeing picaflores (humming birds) sweeping down in their droves to feed on the sugar water that Richard and Ana-Maria regularly restocked. If I had seen humming birds before, it was certainly never like this. There were dozens of them from day break to night fall. In the evenings, the boat supermarket made its stops along the river. 

The Sudestada effect

The recent floods that had caused serious damage in some parts of BA province seem to have left the delta unscathed. Richard told us that flooding was not really a problem; it was the Sudestada, strong persistent winds that batter the River Plate, that could cause trouble for them.

On our last day, the river level had risen practically overnight to flood the grounds. Hence, why houses are built on stilts. In just a few hours the temperature had dropped by 10 degrees and conversely the water level had surged. Nonetheless, it was perfect for going out on a canoe and exploring some of the other nearby waterways.

 

To complete our riverine experience, Richard and Ana Maria took us back to Tigre in their speedboat. Before coming to the delta, I had never considered a riverine holiday. I don’t think I would want to do it for more than a few days, but being away from cars and being forced to relax was quite heavenly.

For more information:

• Hosteria Los Pecanes: http://www.hosterialospecanes.com
• Rates: AR$1700 for 2 nights mid-week, including breakfast
• Other meals: AR$180 per person for 3 courses, wine and tea of coffee. Great value and they were amazing with our veggie and celiac dietary requests
• How to get there: Lancha from Tigre – only three a day: 11.30, 14.15 and 15.00
• Wifi: In the dining area, which is perfect for a restful break 

The BA half marathon: a beautiful airy race

It’s official! I have finally achieved stardom. Mine and my husband Alistair’s name appeared in Tuesday’s Clarín, a national Argentine newspaper, for completing the Buenos Aires half marathon 2015. Hah! My name is almost certainly unlikely to appear in the papers in England, particularly in association with a race.

This was our first race abroad, and the first one in the southern hemisphere. Despite having to get up at 5am, it was worth the effort, not only in terms of taking part but experiencing a part of Argentine culture.

Buenos Aires 21k, 2015

Buenos Aires, or Argentina rather, is no different to England, in the sense that running is “una moda, un boom,” as was reported in Clarin’s half marathon supplement. At 6.30am parking spots near the Palermo parks were becoming far and few between. Queues for the porta loos were steadily building as the participants came streaming in. This was business, there was even a mini practice running track.

A record 22,586 people had registered for the race from 57 different countries. 7.30am, the sun was coming out and we were off. It was perfect running weather. I was worried it might have been a bit of a bottleneck in the beginning with the amount of people but we soon found our stride. It helped that the streets of BA are wide.

Clarin supplement

The route through some of the major streets, including Avenida del Libertador and Avenida 9 de Julio, and plazas of BA was pretty spectacular. It was quite a different sight, seeing these roads free of traffic. Running on the motorway (closed off, I’m glad to say) was quite a feat, with police manning the areas looking down on the shanty towns in Retiro.

There were rumours of a few hills (not sure where in a city as flat as a pancake), but apart from a couple of minor inclines, it was probably the flattest race I had run. Not that it was obvious from my time.

From start to finish, the whole event was very well organised, with several drinks stations along the way, as well as fruit. The atmosphere was great, with plenty of volunteers keeping our spirits up and the odd blast of music along the way.

Results are in

However, there were two things that struck me. Firstly. There was a noticeable lack of charities. In England, there would be charity stands at the start line and several people wearing charity vests or in fancy dress. Here, I did see a few people running along pushing wheelchairs but there was a visible absence of running for a cause, other than for a personal challenge of course.

Secondly, it was an early start but there were far fewer members of the public out on the side lines to motivate the runners. Nonetheless, during and after, I’m very glad to have been part of such a great day, least of all the added bonus of mine and Alistair’s name appearing in the paper. Roll on 2016…

Top five tango shoe shops in Buenos Aires

The 2015 Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is over for another year. Sob. While my tango dancing has yet to take off, my passion for tango shoes has certainly been ignited.

Ladies (sorry varones), whether you’re into tango or not, tango shoe shopping should definitely be on your itinerary when in Buenos Aires. You don’t have to love the dance to love the shoes. 

An array of tango shoes

As you can imagine, BA has no shortage of tango shoes. With so many to choose from, and that’s just the colour, where does one begin? My tango teacher friend whirled me from shop to shop but I appreciate you might not have the the time or patience, so I’ve whittled it down to my top five.     

1. Comme Il Faut, Arenales 1239 door 3 apt. M

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday - Friday 11.00-19.00, Saturday 11.00-15.00

Comme Il Faut is like entering a boudoir rather than a shoe shop. The décor is very Sex and the City, kitted out in plush sofas to rest tired soles and mirrors panelling the walls.

On almost every occasion the staff have been less than welcoming, but the shoes make up for the frosty reception.

I was in awe - shimmery gold, soft mint, silver, multi-coloured, black and white polka dots, red and white stripes, leopard and zebra prints, Dalmatian black and white… and so many more.

They have every model and combination possible – peep toes, diagonal straps, ankle straps, T-strap, crossing straps, closed heels, open heels and ruffles. The material also varies from leather to patent, satin to suede, woven leather, or a mix of them all.

Verdict: Whether you’re looking for a classical shoe, an outrageous number or something dainty and pretty, Comme Il Faut caters for all occasions, tango or no tango. There are limited numbers of each design, so if you like what you see be decisive.

2. Angelina, Viamonte 1662 1F

Price: AR$2,100-AR$2,600

Opening hours: Email info@angelinashoes.com to make an appointment, although we just turned up in the afternoon

I thought I had seen it all with Comme Il Faut. However, Angelina turned out to be a really pleasant surprise. The show room is welcoming, with a big sign in the reception, marble floors and a soft beige carpet in the shoe area.

Pretty much every single shoe was stunning - royal blues mixed with silver or gold, encrusted diamantes, floral designs or double straps.

My favourite was a simple tomato-red, open-toe, closed-heel model made of crocodile-printed leather, with a single black ankle strap. With names like Animal chocolate, jeans and gold, diamante and champagne, I almost wanted to eat them.

Verdict: They are on the pricier end, but they fit like a glove and were comfortable as I paraded across the marble floor.

3. Greta Flora, Uruguay 1295, Palermo

Price: Around AR$2,900

Opening hours: Monday – Saturday 11.00-19.00

I went to the sister shop which specialises in bridal shoes. However, the tango shoes that I saw had unusual, pretty designs with many models sporting the signature flower. The stiletto heel was slightly thicker than Comme Il Faut and Angelina but the overall shoe still looked elegant.

Verdict: I’m not sure I could justify the extra spend but am tempted by the names of some of the models: either Rosaura or Prudencia.

4. Neo Tango, Sarmiento 1938 CABA

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday – Friday 10.30-19.00, Saturday 11.00-16.00

It has a decent range of models and colours, and the shoes come in two heel lengths. They are well finished, but you are walking into a shoe shop so the whole affair is slightly underwhelming compared with Comme Il Faut and Angelina.

A shoe that fits

Verdict: A good choice if you are looking for a more classical shoe. The staff are also friendly and leave you to browse in peace.

5. Souple, Juan D Peron 1757, 5º 21 CABA

Price: AR$2,100

Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 14.00-18.00

The shoes are classical and comfortable. However, the stiletto tip seemed a bit too small which could be an issue if you plan to dance the night away. Besides rich blues and shocking reds, the rest of the collection is rather less eye-catching than the styles I have become accustomed to. For that price, I had expected to be blown away.

Verdict: Nice, classical shoes but more expensive than Comme Il Faut and Neo Tango. 

No woman’s wardrobe is complete without some showstopper sandals. If you want something slightly more unusual, as well as an enduring souvenir from Buenos Aires, tango shoes could be right up your street.          

Political violence in Argentina paints an unsettling scene

Argentine politics are either so complicated, controversial or seemingly unreal that I have shied away from commentating on the matter. If politics are a quagmire for ordinary Argentines, then I stand little chance of making sense of it. Except when the front-page story talks about fraud, political violence and police repression. 

   

On Sunday, people in Tucumán province went to the polls to elect a new governor. In contention were the Peronist, Front for Victory candidate Juan Manzur (the incumbent party representative and former Secretary of State) and José Cano, from the opposition Radical Civic Union (UCR) party.

Provisional results showed that Mazur has won the elections with 54.4% of the vote, compared with 40.8% for Cano.

Tension and violence 

However, by Tuesday it emerged that the elections had been fraught with tension and violence. Policemen were injured, shots were fired and it turns out that more than 40 ballot boxes had been burned. One ballot box contained 30 FPV ballots even before voting had started. Meanwhile, a cameraman was attacked for filming food bags being delivered in exchange for votes.

Yesterday, national newspapers carried headlines and pictures showing police heavy-handedly breaking up a peaceful protest against the allegedly fraudulent elections. 

Protestors were confronted with tear gas and rubber bullets, leading to several injuries.

Manzur was quick to claim victory. Cano, on the other hand, has demanded that the ballot boxes be opened and the votes fully recounted.

"Not fraud"

As a bystander, it is unnerving to be living in a country where processes and the rule of law are simply disregarded. Even the national electoral director said yesterday in the national newspaper La Nacion that “burning ballot boxes is not fraud, but another type of crime”. 

Argentines do not take this at face value; they have a long tradition of protesting and are often seen banging their saucepans, as judged by the anti-government protests in 2012. However, it is a worrying sign when protests, especially peaceful ones, and free speech begin to be forcefully repressed.

The final vote counting started yesterday at 6pm local time. One can only hope this is a not a precursor of what could happen in the Presidential elections in October. Argentine politics seem to have become a whole lot messier.  

Tango BA: I stand converted

The annual Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is back in Buenos Aires for the seventh year running. Love it or hate it, it’s certainly an expressive, if not impressive dance form. In my six months in BA, I had yet to step foot in a milonga, a place or event where tango is danced, so what better time or place.

Tango BA at Usina del Arte

Amazingly, most, if not all, of the events in the designated venues are free. The Festival started last Friday, 14^th August, and will culminate in the Dance-Floor Tango and Stage Tango Finals on 26^th and 27^th August respectively.

After watching some impromptu tango in San Telmo's ubiquitous Plaza Dorrego, we headed to Usina del Arte (The Arts Factory), in La Boca. The Usina makes a befitting venue, standing proudly on the side of the motorway, beyond the villas, as you approach from Quilmes to Capital.

Modern and cool 

From the inside, the Usina is a modern, cool building that is worth a visit in itself. It was built to mark the area’s industrial strength. This “Palace of Light” was designed by an Italian architect, Giovanni Chiogna, with Neo-Renaissance and Florentine influences. 

Construction started in 1914 and it was inaugurated in 1916. The Usina was home to Ítalo Argentina de Electricidad until 1980, when the company sold the factory to the state. It was finally liquidated in 1997 because of the oversupply of electricity and high maintenance costs. The building was abandoned and left to deteriorate. With the help of various Governors of the city of Buenos Aires, including the incumbent Mauricio Macri, the Usina has been turned into one of the city’s main arts centres.

Coming back to tango, we managed to get tickets for an orchestral performance by tango guitar legend Juanjo Domínguez Cuarteto. I had never heard of him before, and ok it was not quite the tango dancing I had imagined. But he was a cool, old dude who had certainly strummed some guitars in his time.

La Milonga del Dique 0

Right next to the Usina, a temporary milonga, La Milong del Dique 0, nestled under the motorway where you could practice your moves and register for free classes. I was even asked to dance but had to politely decline the offer. Of course I didn’t want to show up everyone else… If only that had been the case.

Tango en vive at la Milonga del Dique 0

For someone who admires tango but was not crazy about it (up until now that it is), this was a good but gentle initiation into this other world. It often seems like such a cliché, but it was actually good fun. From older, sophisticated crooners to some young hipsters strutting their moves, it was hard to tear myself away from the fancy footwork... and more.

Passionate, intense and downright seductive, tango contains all the elements a dance needs. And it doesn’t have to be cheesy. I can see the beginnings of an enduring but also turbulent love affair.  

A sodden Buenos Aires: storms, floods and misery

I have just given my cleaner packets of biscuits as part of a collection for victims who have been badly affected by the floods in Buenos Aires province. Unfortunately, I couldn't think of anything else we owned that could be of use under such tragic circumstances.

I’ve only just realised the enormity of this disaster, having read heart-breaking newspaper reports and seen pictures of people being forced to evacuate their homes.

A week under water, courtesy of Clarin

The front page story in Wednesday’s Clarin, a national Argentine newspaper, reported that six municipalities in the province were under water and that more than 20,000 people had been affected. Yesterday, there were pictures of the river overflowing in Quilmes, the area where we live.

Carrying on the fight 

Sadly, many of the shanty towns, known as villas, are also in Quilmes. A resident from the villa whose job it is to “help” people park their cars for a small fee told me that his area had been flooded, but that they would carry on fighting.

We have gotten off extremely lightly in the face of such desperate situations. Our small front lawn, where the grass has worn away, has turned into a mini pond but thankfully our swimming pool has not overflowed.

I know I should be used to it, coming from England, particularly having just come back from a wet and cold summer. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever seen lightening during mid-morning or heard thunder so deafening loud that our house almost shook with fear.

The storms seem to have been caused by the Sudestada (Southeast blow), a climatic phenomenon that commonly affects the River Plate and the surrounding area. A sudden rotation of cold southern winds create cooler temperatures, heavy rainfall and choppy seas – usually between July and October.

That said, the people I have spoken to have been surprised by how long it has rained. A couple of days, yes, but constant rain for a week on end like this is considered unusual.

An absent government response 

Yet, perhaps what is less surprising is the government’s handling of the situation. Scioli, governor of the Buenos Aires province and also the front-runner of the upcoming presidential elections, helpfully went to Italy during the floods. 

Despite Buenos Aires being an area prone to flooding, in 2014 spending on preventing flooding had fallen to its lowest level since the creation of the funds in 2010.

The rain may have finally stopped, but the politics of the flooding has just started.

A crazy place called home… Back in BAires

We arrived back to Buenos Aires greeted by pouring rain and a power cut… home sweet home! I have just returned after a month in England, our first trip there since we moved to BA six months to the day yesterday.

It’s funny; I've felt pretty settled in BA, hadn’t really missed England, apart from family and friends of course... until we went to England. I’m sure many expats experience this when trying to make a life abroad - where do you call home?

A lodge with a view - Bath, England

When I touched ground at Heathrow airport, it felt like I had never been away. I guess five and a half months is too short for things to change noticeably. I got on the tube with my Oyster card as I used to, berated myself for going shopping district in Oxford Street and didn’t have to plan my conversation before I opened my mouth.

Supermarkets, what a treat

Even going to to shops such as Sainsbury's and Marks and Spencer were a treat… I could buy everything I needed, for decent quality all under one roof. I'm sorry, but now that I'm living abroad, British supermarkets really are among the best in the world. And don't get me started on toiletries at Boots.... I'm pining already. 

I also forget how clean England is, compared with a lot of places. I didn’t have to keep my eyes glued to the floor in case I stepped in something grim, and could admire the pretty English countryside.

  

The weather, unfortunately, was very English. It rained as much in England in July as it had during the whole five and half months I had been in BA. However, when it came to seeing friends and family, it was as if I had just left them five minutes ago. 

I had gone back for two wedding celebrations (my own admittedly). Therefore, I was surrounded by family, some of whom had come from exotic places such as Kenya, Dubai and Belgium as well as friends from various aspects of my life.

Life of a princess 

I was spoilt rotten. I felt like a princess - pampered, fed while my hands and feet were covered in intricate henna designs and was dressed in a total of four incredibly beautiful outfits. What more could a girl want or need… 

A handful of henna

Alas, it was a slightly heavy heart that I returned to BA. Not because I did not want to come back, but because of the thought that I may not see some people again, as in elderly relatives, or events that I’ll most certainly miss out on.

So while I returned to a damp BA, I must remember that sun will start to shine more brightly in BA than in England in the months ahead. And when I think about home, why limit myself to one home when I can have two.          

A winter’s tale in BAires

Winter has taken it’s time to fully show its face this year in Buenos Aires. We’ve been waiting for the winds from La Pampa to blow a chill across the city. Compared with last year, 2014, primavera seems to have gone on and on and on… Not that I’m complaining but I’m intrigued to know how winter fares in the southern hemisphere. Finally, the mist is beginning to settle, just maybe.

A misty morning in BA

I’m often asked how cold it gets in BA and if it snows. July, the equivalent of January in the UK, is probably the coldest month in BA. I only experienced a few days of it, but it has got to down to about 6 degrees in the morning, rising up to about 11 or 12 degrees during the day.

It’s strange how 11 degrees can feel really warm in the UK (during winter I mean) but feels really cold in BA. I’m pleased to report we have proper heating in our house; it's so good that the radiator has burnt the wall in the lounge. And it has been known to snow, though very rarely. It last snowed in BA in 2007, and the last time before that in 1918! 

I had packed barely any winter clothes when we had first arrived in BA. It was the height of summer; who wants to think about thermal vests or long-sleeved tops when it’s 30 degrees outside? “You won’t possibly need any warm clothes, not until May at the earliest,” said my husband Alistair.

Luckily, he was correct. I was worried that I would be pining for my Uggs in no time. April was unusually warm in BA. Even May, which is often an unpredictable month in terms of weather, was pretty glorious. Only once did I need to wear a base layer while out running. I've also been amazed at how little it has rained, as well as seeing bouts of thunder and lightening in winter.

Now the air is slightly fresher in BA, I thought it would be a good time to escape to warmer climes and get some winter sun… To the UK of all places. And my Uggs are coming back with me. Just in case. 

Freelancing: Striking a balance in a frenemy’s paradise

I have diligently been trying to keep up my weekly blog posts and have made it past entry No.10. Four months in and now they’re starting to slip. I do admire people who manage to update their blogs while holding down a full-time job, of which I’m doing neither. 

But neither am I breezing from one café to another, bar hopping or being a lady who lunches. Instead, I’ve been cooped in my office/dining room in freelancing heaven, hell or somewhere in between.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh

When we decided to move to Buenos Aires, a blog seemed ideal to give me some focus while meeting people, finding my feet, and importantly looking for work.

However, not having a national identity card when we first arrived in BA meant I couldn’t work in an official capacity. Too bad, but at the same time I was relieved. Although we had moved here primarily for my husband’s work, having come this far, I didn’t want to work in an office if I could help it. Also that would mean working over the summer while Alistair, who is a teacher, could take off and see the country for almost three months.    

My Spanish was ok before we arrived so that was a bonus, maybe. Nonetheless, I had no idea where to start, who to ask, where to look…

Contacts, contacts and more contacts

First came the English lessons, providing extra tuition to pupils at St George’s College, the school where Alistair teaches. I was worried that it would interfere with my social life, but with little cash of my own, I guess a heaving social life was not on the agenda. Besides the kids are entertaining, and expanding my education in turn. I have read two new novels, Disgrace and Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit, because one of students is reading them for English.      

Next, by chance I met a guy at the swimming pool in our previous apartment complex and it turned out that he works in the medtech industry. This is very close to my previous line of work, as I was a journalist and then later for a communications/public relations firm focused on life sciences. 

I've told almost anyone I meet that I’m looking for contacts. In general, people have been very kind, including my swimming pool friend sent me lots of contacts on LinkedIn.

Be brave. Since then I have approached so many people on LinkedIn I have lost track. Out of a 100 invitations and messages, I might receive five replies but I’ve consoled myself that’s ok and I just have to push on. 

I’ve managed to pitch one story on the pharmaceutical industry in Latin America and Argentina to my previous employer, Scrip, a news and intelligence service focused on the biopharmaceutical industry.

Since then, a friend in England who works for an international pharmaceutical consultancy service has asked me to transcribe and translate audio interviews in Spanish into English from a field-trip in Colombia. My brain is slightly frazzled, but I have to say it’s great for improving my Spanish. 

I was worried I might not have enough to do (besides planning a wedding from abroad), so I’m also contending with my Chartered Institute of Marketing digital marketing course in marketing communications. 

From nowhere I’ve ended up biting off a bit more than I can chew, drowning with all my multiple deadlines. 

Alistair and my good friend Francesco have told me several times to say NO. But I don’t feel I can, not yet anyway. This is about my reputation, building up skills and ultimately selling me. So until then I may be flitting from freelancing being my friend to it being my foe...? But a worker’s paradise is none other than what you make it – mine just happens to be a dining room in BA.  

Duathlon in la Pampa: Everyone’s a winner

Alistair and I did our first mountain bike duathlon on Sunday, and what an event. I came second in an unbeknown category to me and I didn’t even do the bike ride (more on that later). Only having done one duathalon before, in England and on a road bike, I didn’t know what to expect - in terms of the actual event but also what type of people would take part.

With Argentine society squeezed for every penny; heavy import restrictions; and high inflation, I was surprised that duathlons are as big as they are in Argentina. I mean bikes, trainers and the general attire are expensive. Yet, people seemingly have enough to spend on such recreational activities. And on looking good while doing their pursuits.

The race begins

The day consisted of a 5k, 10k and 15k run and then the duathlon. It all took place at Estación Gomez, one of the many abandoned train stations in Argentina, in the Buenos Aires provincial town of Brandsen.

Half asleep, having woken up at 6.45am for a race that was supposed to start at 12pm (Argentine timing so in actual fact any time after 12pm), I awoke to an array of well-kitted Argentines. There must have been at least a few hundred people at the event, parading a pretty impressive range of international bike brands - from Cube and Cannondale to Specialized and Meridas. 

Where the sun still shines

It was a glorious day, with blazing sunshine and up to some 20 degrees by 10am. Although unusually warm for this time of year, for the equivalent of the last day in November, you would never get a day like this in England.

The Argentines really had set up camp for the day. People had arrived early with their families and were relaxing on deck chairs or rugs under their team shelter canopies. We had come with our club, Club Kona, a local running and mountain biking club in Quilmes. A hearty breakfast of croissants and cakes (always going for the healthy option) was laid out for us, with the indispensable mate never too far away.

Unlike most duathlons I’m aware of, in this particular race (or maybe in Argentina in general) you can either: 1) do the complete event individually or 2) team up with a partner where one runs at either side only, and the other does only the bike. Bravo Alistair for deciding to do the whole thing. I chickened out and chose the latter; I only did the running part.

Chaos in the midst

Typically, no one knew what time the race started. The transition area was rather chaotic, with not enough room for all the bikes. No one even knew what the course looked like, expect that it would be flat. Even at the safety drill, no one understood the rules. And it was not just us gringos; even the locals looked perplexed after several explanations of sorts.

So off we went, oblivious. After a lovely section in the open campo, the path narrowed considerably. There were spiky bushes on either side, forcing us to run in single file, while trying not to get scratched. This was more like a steeple chase course than an undulating 5k. I didn’t really fancy doing it all over again.

The bike course was something else. At several points, the competitors had to dismount and carry their bikes over various obstacles, including half-missing railway sleepers. One of the girls in our team was lucky to have found two gentlemen who assisted her across this perilous section. This was certainly not for the faint-hearted.

Prizes galore

I had no idea what my time was but I was suitably rewarded for my efforts, with my partner and I coming second in the mixed double running-bike combo. Hah, I’d never even get on the rankings in England!

In true Argentine manner, the prize-awarding ceremony lasted an age. There were medals and trophies for every category imaginable; for each increasing five-year age bracket, gender, species etc. Club Kona actually won severally prizes, including first female overall in the complete duathlon, first and second in the mixed doubles and first in the preceding 15k runs in the respective age category. Kona means strong or valiant in the indigenous language of Mapuche, so I guess this was not altogether unsurprising. 

I might not have enjoyed the actual race but it was an insight into another side of Argentine society. People do, and enjoy doing, the same things as we do back home, even if on a rougher track and in a slightly more disorganised fashion. It was a great opportunity to mix with locals, do some exercise, for Alistair to make good use of his bike, see some of the countryside and to top it off, win a prize. I could think of worse ways to spend a Sunday.   

25th of May 2015: Celebrating independence, personalities... and art

I have stayed clear of Argentine politics, largely because I don’t understand it. Beyond the presidential elections due to take place later this year, and knowing the names of the forerunners, politics here is a labyrinth. So why do I bring up the subject now? Because yesterday was 25^th of May, the 205^th anniversary marking the movement that led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. “But what exactly are they celebrating?” asked an article on the bicentenary five years ago.

A good question, especially in the context of recent events that have shaped Argentina’s society, economics, politics and its view of the world.

Kirchner Culture Centre at night, courtesy of Infobae

For Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, current President of the nation, this will be the last time she presides over the annual commemorations. Not one to be known for her demure stature, she is determined to go down as one of the greats in Argentine politics and turned the focus of this year’s celebrations to herself, unsurprisingly.

In her attempt to leave an enduring legacy, last week she unveiled the Kirchner Cultural Centre, marking 12 years of the Kirchners’ rule since her husband Néstor Kirchner became president in 2003. Housed in the renovated central post office building, it certainly looks impressive. The “Blue Whale”, the heart of the Centre which can seat up to 1,750 people, and the permanent “Nestor Kirchner” room on the second floor are just a couple of the features.

The idea of converting the post office building into a culture centre, originally called the Bicentenary Cultural Centre, was intended to celebrate the bicentenary since independence. In, 2012, the government decided to rename the Centre to the Néstor Kirchner Cultural Centre, and now just simply the Kirchner Cultural Centre (CCCK bordering on the crass perhaps). 

    

According to CFK, the aim of the Centre is to enable all Argentines to access culture, through a wide, diverse and high-quality programme. Judging from the programme over the next two weeks, there is a decent list of educational, arts and music events, notwithstanding the iconic Eva Perón being a prominent subject of discussion.

A noble aim, I agree, and why not create a cultural centre for future generations to enjoy? The cynic in me would say that the Centre bearing the incumbent’s name may be remembered for all the reasons but culture. On the other hand, if 25^th of May is about celebrating independence, maybe some independence from politics is duly welcome. Like I said, I don’t understand Argentine politics.