Tigre and the Paraná Delta, one of The Rough Guide to Argentina's top 28 things not to miss, was high on my itinerary. It has attained celebrity status, with the likes of Madonna visiting the area. After eight months of being in BA, the journey was beckoning.
Just one hour north of Buenos Aires, Tigre is a quaint city
that is the gateway to the River Paraná. While the city is a draw in itself, we wanted to explore the waterways further afield. For my
husband, who is an ecologist and biologist, this was a place we simply had to visit.
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| Relaxing in the Parana Delta |
For just AR$3 (equivalent to roughly 20p; there is also a more expensive, though scenic, costal train) we were able to get the train from Retiro train station in BA, to Tigre. While many things in Buenos Aires are stupidly expensive, like electronics, crockery and towels (of all things) public transport is ridiculously cheap.
Mississippi eat your heart out
I have never been to the Mississippi delta, but I imagine the Paraná Delta, with its crisscross of water trails, would give it a run for
its money. It was as if time had stood still, with a once glorious
era intertwined with the present day. British and European influences were still evident with several signs in English, such as the one for the local Rowing Club.
At Tigre we boarded a lancha (river boat - AR$310 return for
two people) to take us to our B&B, Hosteria Los Pecanes. We seemed
to be the only holiday makers on board; most of the passengers were locals going
about their business. We picked up a boy who was going to school during the
afternoon shift and dropped him further down the river, while a few other folk
got on and off.
Unfortunately, despite being in the midst of a vast nature
reserve, several
locals saw it fit to simply chuck beer cans and food wrappers into the waters.
Los Pecanes
As we cruised along the river, we saw some impressive
mansions on stilts, others which had seen better days, some built up on soil
brought to the region and others which appeared to be floating on the river. It
took an hour and a half to get to Los Pecanes, which is on River Estudiantes.
Los Pecanes is run by Richard and his wife, Ana-Maria, who
both speak excellent English, and their three dogs: Hercules, Chiquita and
Kinny. Admittedly, there is not a huge amount to do, but if you’re looking for
a few days of rest and tranquility not far from BA, this is a perfect spot. Even better if you’re a bird lover.
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| Picaflor feeding time |
A real highlight for both me and my husband was seeing picaflores (humming birds) sweeping down in their droves to feed on the sugar water
that Richard and Ana-Maria regularly restocked. If I had seen humming birds
before, it was certainly never like this. There were dozens of them from day
break to night fall. In the evenings, the boat supermarket made its stops
along the river.
The Sudestada effect
The recent floods that had caused serious damage in some
parts of BA province seem to have left the delta unscathed.
Richard told us that flooding was not really a problem; it was the Sudestada, strong
persistent winds that batter the River Plate, that could cause trouble for them.
On our last day, the river level had risen practically overnight
to flood the grounds. Hence, why houses are built on stilts. In just a few
hours the temperature had dropped by 10 degrees and conversely the water level
had surged. Nonetheless, it was perfect for going out on a canoe and exploring
some of the other nearby waterways.
To complete our riverine experience, Richard and Ana Maria
took us back to Tigre in their speedboat. Before coming to the delta, I had
never considered a riverine holiday. I don’t think I would want to do it for
more than a few days, but being away from cars and being forced to relax was quite heavenly.
For more information:
- Hosteria Los Pecanes: http://www.hosterialospecanes.com
- Rates: AR$1700 for 2 nights mid-week, including breakfast
- Other meals: AR$180 per person for 3 courses, wine and tea of coffee. Great value and they were amazing with our veggie and celiac dietary requests
- How to get there: Lancha from Tigre – only three a day: 11.30, 14.15 and 15.00
- Wifi: In the dining area, which is perfect for a restful break
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