The BA half marathon: a beautiful airy race

It’s official! I have finally achieved stardom. Mine and my husband Alistair’s name appeared in Tuesday’s Clarín, a national Argentine newspaper, for completing the Buenos Aires half marathon 2015. Hah! My name is almost certainly unlikely to appear in the papers in England, particularly in association with a race.

This was our first race abroad, and the first one in the southern hemisphere. Despite having to get up at 5am, it was worth the effort, not only in terms of taking part but experiencing a part of Argentine culture.

Buenos Aires 21k, 2015

Buenos Aires, or Argentina rather, is no different to England, in the sense that running is “una moda, un boom,” as was reported in Clarin’s half marathon supplement. At 6.30am parking spots near the Palermo parks were becoming far and few between. Queues for the porta loos were steadily building as the participants came streaming in. This was business, there was even a mini practice running track.

A record 22,586 people had registered for the race from 57 different countries. 7.30am, the sun was coming out and we were off. It was perfect running weather. I was worried it might have been a bit of a bottleneck in the beginning with the amount of people but we soon found our stride. It helped that the streets of BA are wide.

Clarin supplement

The route through some of the major streets, including Avenida del Libertador and Avenida 9 de Julio, and plazas of BA was pretty spectacular. It was quite a different sight, seeing these roads free of traffic. Running on the motorway (closed off, I’m glad to say) was quite a feat, with police manning the areas looking down on the shanty towns in Retiro.

There were rumours of a few hills (not sure where in a city as flat as a pancake), but apart from a couple of minor inclines, it was probably the flattest race I had run. Not that it was obvious from my time.

From start to finish, the whole event was very well organised, with several drinks stations along the way, as well as fruit. The atmosphere was great, with plenty of volunteers keeping our spirits up and the odd blast of music along the way.

Results are in

However, there were two things that struck me. Firstly. There was a noticeable lack of charities. In England, there would be charity stands at the start line and several people wearing charity vests or in fancy dress. Here, I did see a few people running along pushing wheelchairs but there was a visible absence of running for a cause, other than for a personal challenge of course.

Secondly, it was an early start but there were far fewer members of the public out on the side lines to motivate the runners. Nonetheless, during and after, I’m very glad to have been part of such a great day, least of all the added bonus of mine and Alistair’s name appearing in the paper. Roll on 2016…

Top five tango shoe shops in Buenos Aires

The 2015 Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is over for another year. Sob. While my tango dancing has yet to take off, my passion for tango shoes has certainly been ignited.

Ladies (sorry varones), whether you’re into tango or not, tango shoe shopping should definitely be on your itinerary when in Buenos Aires. You don’t have to love the dance to love the shoes. 

An array of tango shoes

As you can imagine, BA has no shortage of tango shoes. With so many to choose from, and that’s just the colour, where does one begin? My tango teacher friend whirled me from shop to shop but I appreciate you might not have the the time or patience, so I’ve whittled it down to my top five.     

1. Comme Il Faut, Arenales 1239 door 3 apt. M

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday - Friday 11.00-19.00, Saturday 11.00-15.00

Comme Il Faut is like entering a boudoir rather than a shoe shop. The décor is very Sex and the City, kitted out in plush sofas to rest tired soles and mirrors panelling the walls.

On almost every occasion the staff have been less than welcoming, but the shoes make up for the frosty reception.

I was in awe - shimmery gold, soft mint, silver, multi-coloured, black and white polka dots, red and white stripes, leopard and zebra prints, Dalmatian black and white… and so many more.

They have every model and combination possible – peep toes, diagonal straps, ankle straps, T-strap, crossing straps, closed heels, open heels and ruffles. The material also varies from leather to patent, satin to suede, woven leather, or a mix of them all.

Verdict: Whether you’re looking for a classical shoe, an outrageous number or something dainty and pretty, Comme Il Faut caters for all occasions, tango or no tango. There are limited numbers of each design, so if you like what you see be decisive.

2. Angelina, Viamonte 1662 1F

Price: AR$2,100-AR$2,600

Opening hours: Email info@angelinashoes.com to make an appointment, although we just turned up in the afternoon

I thought I had seen it all with Comme Il Faut. However, Angelina turned out to be a really pleasant surprise. The show room is welcoming, with a big sign in the reception, marble floors and a soft beige carpet in the shoe area.

Pretty much every single shoe was stunning - royal blues mixed with silver or gold, encrusted diamantes, floral designs or double straps.

My favourite was a simple tomato-red, open-toe, closed-heel model made of crocodile-printed leather, with a single black ankle strap. With names like Animal chocolate, jeans and gold, diamante and champagne, I almost wanted to eat them.

Verdict: They are on the pricier end, but they fit like a glove and were comfortable as I paraded across the marble floor.

3. Greta Flora, Uruguay 1295, Palermo

Price: Around AR$2,900

Opening hours: Monday – Saturday 11.00-19.00

I went to the sister shop which specialises in bridal shoes. However, the tango shoes that I saw had unusual, pretty designs with many models sporting the signature flower. The stiletto heel was slightly thicker than Comme Il Faut and Angelina but the overall shoe still looked elegant.

Verdict: I’m not sure I could justify the extra spend but am tempted by the names of some of the models: either Rosaura or Prudencia.

4. Neo Tango, Sarmiento 1938 CABA

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday – Friday 10.30-19.00, Saturday 11.00-16.00

It has a decent range of models and colours, and the shoes come in two heel lengths. They are well finished, but you are walking into a shoe shop so the whole affair is slightly underwhelming compared with Comme Il Faut and Angelina.

A shoe that fits

Verdict: A good choice if you are looking for a more classical shoe. The staff are also friendly and leave you to browse in peace.

5. Souple, Juan D Peron 1757, 5º 21 CABA

Price: AR$2,100

Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 14.00-18.00

The shoes are classical and comfortable. However, the stiletto tip seemed a bit too small which could be an issue if you plan to dance the night away. Besides rich blues and shocking reds, the rest of the collection is rather less eye-catching than the styles I have become accustomed to. For that price, I had expected to be blown away.

Verdict: Nice, classical shoes but more expensive than Comme Il Faut and Neo Tango. 

No woman’s wardrobe is complete without some showstopper sandals. If you want something slightly more unusual, as well as an enduring souvenir from Buenos Aires, tango shoes could be right up your street.          

Political violence in Argentina paints an unsettling scene

Argentine politics are either so complicated, controversial or seemingly unreal that I have shied away from commentating on the matter. If politics are a quagmire for ordinary Argentines, then I stand little chance of making sense of it. Except when the front-page story talks about fraud, political violence and police repression. 

   

On Sunday, people in Tucumán province went to the polls to elect a new governor. In contention were the Peronist, Front for Victory candidate Juan Manzur (the incumbent party representative and former Secretary of State) and José Cano, from the opposition Radical Civic Union (UCR) party.

Provisional results showed that Mazur has won the elections with 54.4% of the vote, compared with 40.8% for Cano.

Tension and violence 

However, by Tuesday it emerged that the elections had been fraught with tension and violence. Policemen were injured, shots were fired and it turns out that more than 40 ballot boxes had been burned. One ballot box contained 30 FPV ballots even before voting had started. Meanwhile, a cameraman was attacked for filming food bags being delivered in exchange for votes.

Yesterday, national newspapers carried headlines and pictures showing police heavy-handedly breaking up a peaceful protest against the allegedly fraudulent elections. 

Protestors were confronted with tear gas and rubber bullets, leading to several injuries.

Manzur was quick to claim victory. Cano, on the other hand, has demanded that the ballot boxes be opened and the votes fully recounted.

"Not fraud"

As a bystander, it is unnerving to be living in a country where processes and the rule of law are simply disregarded. Even the national electoral director said yesterday in the national newspaper La Nacion that “burning ballot boxes is not fraud, but another type of crime”. 

Argentines do not take this at face value; they have a long tradition of protesting and are often seen banging their saucepans, as judged by the anti-government protests in 2012. However, it is a worrying sign when protests, especially peaceful ones, and free speech begin to be forcefully repressed.

The final vote counting started yesterday at 6pm local time. One can only hope this is a not a precursor of what could happen in the Presidential elections in October. Argentine politics seem to have become a whole lot messier.  

Tango BA: I stand converted

The annual Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is back in Buenos Aires for the seventh year running. Love it or hate it, it’s certainly an expressive, if not impressive dance form. In my six months in BA, I had yet to step foot in a milonga, a place or event where tango is danced, so what better time or place.

Tango BA at Usina del Arte

Amazingly, most, if not all, of the events in the designated venues are free. The Festival started last Friday, 14^th August, and will culminate in the Dance-Floor Tango and Stage Tango Finals on 26^th and 27^th August respectively.

After watching some impromptu tango in San Telmo's ubiquitous Plaza Dorrego, we headed to Usina del Arte (The Arts Factory), in La Boca. The Usina makes a befitting venue, standing proudly on the side of the motorway, beyond the villas, as you approach from Quilmes to Capital.

Modern and cool 

From the inside, the Usina is a modern, cool building that is worth a visit in itself. It was built to mark the area’s industrial strength. This “Palace of Light” was designed by an Italian architect, Giovanni Chiogna, with Neo-Renaissance and Florentine influences. 

Construction started in 1914 and it was inaugurated in 1916. The Usina was home to Ítalo Argentina de Electricidad until 1980, when the company sold the factory to the state. It was finally liquidated in 1997 because of the oversupply of electricity and high maintenance costs. The building was abandoned and left to deteriorate. With the help of various Governors of the city of Buenos Aires, including the incumbent Mauricio Macri, the Usina has been turned into one of the city’s main arts centres.

Coming back to tango, we managed to get tickets for an orchestral performance by tango guitar legend Juanjo Domínguez Cuarteto. I had never heard of him before, and ok it was not quite the tango dancing I had imagined. But he was a cool, old dude who had certainly strummed some guitars in his time.

La Milonga del Dique 0

Right next to the Usina, a temporary milonga, La Milong del Dique 0, nestled under the motorway where you could practice your moves and register for free classes. I was even asked to dance but had to politely decline the offer. Of course I didn’t want to show up everyone else… If only that had been the case.

Tango en vive at la Milonga del Dique 0

For someone who admires tango but was not crazy about it (up until now that it is), this was a good but gentle initiation into this other world. It often seems like such a cliché, but it was actually good fun. From older, sophisticated crooners to some young hipsters strutting their moves, it was hard to tear myself away from the fancy footwork... and more.

Passionate, intense and downright seductive, tango contains all the elements a dance needs. And it doesn’t have to be cheesy. I can see the beginnings of an enduring but also turbulent love affair.  

A sodden Buenos Aires: storms, floods and misery

I have just given my cleaner packets of biscuits as part of a collection for victims who have been badly affected by the floods in Buenos Aires province. Unfortunately, I couldn't think of anything else we owned that could be of use under such tragic circumstances.

I’ve only just realised the enormity of this disaster, having read heart-breaking newspaper reports and seen pictures of people being forced to evacuate their homes.

A week under water, courtesy of Clarin

The front page story in Wednesday’s Clarin, a national Argentine newspaper, reported that six municipalities in the province were under water and that more than 20,000 people had been affected. Yesterday, there were pictures of the river overflowing in Quilmes, the area where we live.

Carrying on the fight 

Sadly, many of the shanty towns, known as villas, are also in Quilmes. A resident from the villa whose job it is to “help” people park their cars for a small fee told me that his area had been flooded, but that they would carry on fighting.

We have gotten off extremely lightly in the face of such desperate situations. Our small front lawn, where the grass has worn away, has turned into a mini pond but thankfully our swimming pool has not overflowed.

I know I should be used to it, coming from England, particularly having just come back from a wet and cold summer. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever seen lightening during mid-morning or heard thunder so deafening loud that our house almost shook with fear.

The storms seem to have been caused by the Sudestada (Southeast blow), a climatic phenomenon that commonly affects the River Plate and the surrounding area. A sudden rotation of cold southern winds create cooler temperatures, heavy rainfall and choppy seas – usually between July and October.

That said, the people I have spoken to have been surprised by how long it has rained. A couple of days, yes, but constant rain for a week on end like this is considered unusual.

An absent government response 

Yet, perhaps what is less surprising is the government’s handling of the situation. Scioli, governor of the Buenos Aires province and also the front-runner of the upcoming presidential elections, helpfully went to Italy during the floods. 

Despite Buenos Aires being an area prone to flooding, in 2014 spending on preventing flooding had fallen to its lowest level since the creation of the funds in 2010.

The rain may have finally stopped, but the politics of the flooding has just started.

A crazy place called home… Back in BAires

We arrived back to Buenos Aires greeted by pouring rain and a power cut… home sweet home! I have just returned after a month in England, our first trip there since we moved to BA six months to the day yesterday.

It’s funny; I've felt pretty settled in BA, hadn’t really missed England, apart from family and friends of course... until we went to England. I’m sure many expats experience this when trying to make a life abroad - where do you call home?

A lodge with a view - Bath, England

When I touched ground at Heathrow airport, it felt like I had never been away. I guess five and a half months is too short for things to change noticeably. I got on the tube with my Oyster card as I used to, berated myself for going shopping district in Oxford Street and didn’t have to plan my conversation before I opened my mouth.

Supermarkets, what a treat

Even going to to shops such as Sainsbury's and Marks and Spencer were a treat… I could buy everything I needed, for decent quality all under one roof. I'm sorry, but now that I'm living abroad, British supermarkets really are among the best in the world. And don't get me started on toiletries at Boots.... I'm pining already. 

I also forget how clean England is, compared with a lot of places. I didn’t have to keep my eyes glued to the floor in case I stepped in something grim, and could admire the pretty English countryside.

  

The weather, unfortunately, was very English. It rained as much in England in July as it had during the whole five and half months I had been in BA. However, when it came to seeing friends and family, it was as if I had just left them five minutes ago. 

I had gone back for two wedding celebrations (my own admittedly). Therefore, I was surrounded by family, some of whom had come from exotic places such as Kenya, Dubai and Belgium as well as friends from various aspects of my life.

Life of a princess 

I was spoilt rotten. I felt like a princess - pampered, fed while my hands and feet were covered in intricate henna designs and was dressed in a total of four incredibly beautiful outfits. What more could a girl want or need… 

A handful of henna

Alas, it was a slightly heavy heart that I returned to BA. Not because I did not want to come back, but because of the thought that I may not see some people again, as in elderly relatives, or events that I’ll most certainly miss out on.

So while I returned to a damp BA, I must remember that sun will start to shine more brightly in BA than in England in the months ahead. And when I think about home, why limit myself to one home when I can have two.          

A winter’s tale in BAires

Winter has taken it’s time to fully show its face this year in Buenos Aires. We’ve been waiting for the winds from La Pampa to blow a chill across the city. Compared with last year, 2014, primavera seems to have gone on and on and on… Not that I’m complaining but I’m intrigued to know how winter fares in the southern hemisphere. Finally, the mist is beginning to settle, just maybe.

A misty morning in BA

I’m often asked how cold it gets in BA and if it snows. July, the equivalent of January in the UK, is probably the coldest month in BA. I only experienced a few days of it, but it has got to down to about 6 degrees in the morning, rising up to about 11 or 12 degrees during the day.

It’s strange how 11 degrees can feel really warm in the UK (during winter I mean) but feels really cold in BA. I’m pleased to report we have proper heating in our house; it's so good that the radiator has burnt the wall in the lounge. And it has been known to snow, though very rarely. It last snowed in BA in 2007, and the last time before that in 1918! 

I had packed barely any winter clothes when we had first arrived in BA. It was the height of summer; who wants to think about thermal vests or long-sleeved tops when it’s 30 degrees outside? “You won’t possibly need any warm clothes, not until May at the earliest,” said my husband Alistair.

Luckily, he was correct. I was worried that I would be pining for my Uggs in no time. April was unusually warm in BA. Even May, which is often an unpredictable month in terms of weather, was pretty glorious. Only once did I need to wear a base layer while out running. I've also been amazed at how little it has rained, as well as seeing bouts of thunder and lightening in winter.

Now the air is slightly fresher in BA, I thought it would be a good time to escape to warmer climes and get some winter sun… To the UK of all places. And my Uggs are coming back with me. Just in case.