Upstream BA: Tigre and the Paraná Delta

Tigre and the Paraná Delta, one of The Rough Guide to Argentina's top 28 things not to miss, was high on my itinerary. It has attained celebrity status, with the likes of Madonna visiting the area. After eight months of being in BA, the journey was beckoning. 

Just one hour north of Buenos Aires, Tigre is a quaint city that is the gateway to the River Paraná. While the city is a draw in itself, we wanted to explore the waterways further afield. For my husband, who is an ecologist and biologist, this was a place we simply had to visit.

Relaxing in the Parana Delta

For just AR$3 (equivalent to roughly 20p; there is also a more expensive, though scenic, costal train) we were able to get the train from Retiro train station in BA, to Tigre. While many things in Buenos Aires are stupidly expensive, like electronics, crockery and towels (of all things) public transport is ridiculously cheap.

Mississippi eat your heart out

     

I have never been to the Mississippi delta, but I imagine the Paraná Delta, with its crisscross of water trails, would give it a run for its money. It was as if time had stood still, with a once glorious era intertwined with the present day. British and European influences were still evident with several signs in English, such as the one for the local Rowing Club.

At Tigre we boarded a lancha (river boat - AR$310 return for two people) to take us to our B&B, Hosteria Los Pecanes. We seemed to be the only holiday makers on board; most of the passengers were locals going about their business. We picked up a boy who was going to school during the afternoon shift and dropped him further down the river, while a few other folk got on and off.

Unfortunately, despite being in the midst of a vast nature reserve, several locals saw it fit to simply chuck beer cans and food wrappers into the waters.

Los Pecanes 

  

As we cruised along the river, we saw some impressive mansions on stilts, others which had seen better days, some built up on soil brought to the region and others which appeared to be floating on the river. It took an hour and a half to get to Los Pecanes, which is on River Estudiantes.

Los Pecanes is run by Richard and his wife, Ana-Maria, who both speak excellent English, and their three dogs: Hercules, Chiquita and Kinny. Admittedly, there is not a huge amount to do, but if you’re looking for a few days of rest and tranquility not far from BA, this is a perfect spot. Even better if you’re a bird lover.

Picaflor feeding time

A real highlight for both me and my husband was seeing picaflores (humming birds) sweeping down in their droves to feed on the sugar water that Richard and Ana-Maria regularly restocked. If I had seen humming birds before, it was certainly never like this. There were dozens of them from day break to night fall. In the evenings, the boat supermarket made its stops along the river. 

The Sudestada effect

The recent floods that had caused serious damage in some parts of BA province seem to have left the delta unscathed. Richard told us that flooding was not really a problem; it was the Sudestada, strong persistent winds that batter the River Plate, that could cause trouble for them.

On our last day, the river level had risen practically overnight to flood the grounds. Hence, why houses are built on stilts. In just a few hours the temperature had dropped by 10 degrees and conversely the water level had surged. Nonetheless, it was perfect for going out on a canoe and exploring some of the other nearby waterways.

 

To complete our riverine experience, Richard and Ana Maria took us back to Tigre in their speedboat. Before coming to the delta, I had never considered a riverine holiday. I don’t think I would want to do it for more than a few days, but being away from cars and being forced to relax was quite heavenly.

For more information:

• Hosteria Los Pecanes: http://www.hosterialospecanes.com
• Rates: AR$1700 for 2 nights mid-week, including breakfast
• Other meals: AR$180 per person for 3 courses, wine and tea of coffee. Great value and they were amazing with our veggie and celiac dietary requests
• How to get there: Lancha from Tigre – only three a day: 11.30, 14.15 and 15.00
• Wifi: In the dining area, which is perfect for a restful break 

The BA half marathon: a beautiful airy race

It’s official! I have finally achieved stardom. Mine and my husband Alistair’s name appeared in Tuesday’s Clarín, a national Argentine newspaper, for completing the Buenos Aires half marathon 2015. Hah! My name is almost certainly unlikely to appear in the papers in England, particularly in association with a race.

This was our first race abroad, and the first one in the southern hemisphere. Despite having to get up at 5am, it was worth the effort, not only in terms of taking part but experiencing a part of Argentine culture.

Buenos Aires 21k, 2015

Buenos Aires, or Argentina rather, is no different to England, in the sense that running is “una moda, un boom,” as was reported in Clarin’s half marathon supplement. At 6.30am parking spots near the Palermo parks were becoming far and few between. Queues for the porta loos were steadily building as the participants came streaming in. This was business, there was even a mini practice running track.

A record 22,586 people had registered for the race from 57 different countries. 7.30am, the sun was coming out and we were off. It was perfect running weather. I was worried it might have been a bit of a bottleneck in the beginning with the amount of people but we soon found our stride. It helped that the streets of BA are wide.

Clarin supplement

The route through some of the major streets, including Avenida del Libertador and Avenida 9 de Julio, and plazas of BA was pretty spectacular. It was quite a different sight, seeing these roads free of traffic. Running on the motorway (closed off, I’m glad to say) was quite a feat, with police manning the areas looking down on the shanty towns in Retiro.

There were rumours of a few hills (not sure where in a city as flat as a pancake), but apart from a couple of minor inclines, it was probably the flattest race I had run. Not that it was obvious from my time.

From start to finish, the whole event was very well organised, with several drinks stations along the way, as well as fruit. The atmosphere was great, with plenty of volunteers keeping our spirits up and the odd blast of music along the way.

Results are in

However, there were two things that struck me. Firstly. There was a noticeable lack of charities. In England, there would be charity stands at the start line and several people wearing charity vests or in fancy dress. Here, I did see a few people running along pushing wheelchairs but there was a visible absence of running for a cause, other than for a personal challenge of course.

Secondly, it was an early start but there were far fewer members of the public out on the side lines to motivate the runners. Nonetheless, during and after, I’m very glad to have been part of such a great day, least of all the added bonus of mine and Alistair’s name appearing in the paper. Roll on 2016…

Top five tango shoe shops in Buenos Aires

The 2015 Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is over for another year. Sob. While my tango dancing has yet to take off, my passion for tango shoes has certainly been ignited.

Ladies (sorry varones), whether you’re into tango or not, tango shoe shopping should definitely be on your itinerary when in Buenos Aires. You don’t have to love the dance to love the shoes. 

An array of tango shoes

As you can imagine, BA has no shortage of tango shoes. With so many to choose from, and that’s just the colour, where does one begin? My tango teacher friend whirled me from shop to shop but I appreciate you might not have the the time or patience, so I’ve whittled it down to my top five.     

1. Comme Il Faut, Arenales 1239 door 3 apt. M

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday - Friday 11.00-19.00, Saturday 11.00-15.00

Comme Il Faut is like entering a boudoir rather than a shoe shop. The décor is very Sex and the City, kitted out in plush sofas to rest tired soles and mirrors panelling the walls.

On almost every occasion the staff have been less than welcoming, but the shoes make up for the frosty reception.

I was in awe - shimmery gold, soft mint, silver, multi-coloured, black and white polka dots, red and white stripes, leopard and zebra prints, Dalmatian black and white… and so many more.

They have every model and combination possible – peep toes, diagonal straps, ankle straps, T-strap, crossing straps, closed heels, open heels and ruffles. The material also varies from leather to patent, satin to suede, woven leather, or a mix of them all.

Verdict: Whether you’re looking for a classical shoe, an outrageous number or something dainty and pretty, Comme Il Faut caters for all occasions, tango or no tango. There are limited numbers of each design, so if you like what you see be decisive.

2. Angelina, Viamonte 1662 1F

Price: AR$2,100-AR$2,600

Opening hours: Email info@angelinashoes.com to make an appointment, although we just turned up in the afternoon

I thought I had seen it all with Comme Il Faut. However, Angelina turned out to be a really pleasant surprise. The show room is welcoming, with a big sign in the reception, marble floors and a soft beige carpet in the shoe area.

Pretty much every single shoe was stunning - royal blues mixed with silver or gold, encrusted diamantes, floral designs or double straps.

My favourite was a simple tomato-red, open-toe, closed-heel model made of crocodile-printed leather, with a single black ankle strap. With names like Animal chocolate, jeans and gold, diamante and champagne, I almost wanted to eat them.

Verdict: They are on the pricier end, but they fit like a glove and were comfortable as I paraded across the marble floor.

3. Greta Flora, Uruguay 1295, Palermo

Price: Around AR$2,900

Opening hours: Monday – Saturday 11.00-19.00

I went to the sister shop which specialises in bridal shoes. However, the tango shoes that I saw had unusual, pretty designs with many models sporting the signature flower. The stiletto heel was slightly thicker than Comme Il Faut and Angelina but the overall shoe still looked elegant.

Verdict: I’m not sure I could justify the extra spend but am tempted by the names of some of the models: either Rosaura or Prudencia.

4. Neo Tango, Sarmiento 1938 CABA

Price: AR$1,500

Opening hours: Monday – Friday 10.30-19.00, Saturday 11.00-16.00

It has a decent range of models and colours, and the shoes come in two heel lengths. They are well finished, but you are walking into a shoe shop so the whole affair is slightly underwhelming compared with Comme Il Faut and Angelina.

A shoe that fits

Verdict: A good choice if you are looking for a more classical shoe. The staff are also friendly and leave you to browse in peace.

5. Souple, Juan D Peron 1757, 5º 21 CABA

Price: AR$2,100

Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 14.00-18.00

The shoes are classical and comfortable. However, the stiletto tip seemed a bit too small which could be an issue if you plan to dance the night away. Besides rich blues and shocking reds, the rest of the collection is rather less eye-catching than the styles I have become accustomed to. For that price, I had expected to be blown away.

Verdict: Nice, classical shoes but more expensive than Comme Il Faut and Neo Tango. 

No woman’s wardrobe is complete without some showstopper sandals. If you want something slightly more unusual, as well as an enduring souvenir from Buenos Aires, tango shoes could be right up your street.