BAires the big bad metropolis: Is anywhere safe?

Security, security, and more security seems to be the dominant taking point in Buenos Aires. Since we arrived here two and a half months ago, conversations start off with: “Where are you from?”, “Where do you live?”… and “Ohhh, is your place secure enough?”

A couple of weeks ago, we moved from a flat in an enclosed compound with 24-hour security and into a cute, English-style house. The house has metal grills all around the property, several keys for various locks and security lights in and around the building. The first thing our landlady advised us to do was to call a company whose sole job is to come to the house to ensure we get in safely.

Constantly on the lookout

We’ve got used to our friends and acquaintances talking about this preoccupation every time we see them and now listen with mild amusement. Last night, we went into our local ice-cream parlour (one of the very many highlights of BA) and after trying every flavour of chocolate possible, the owner launched into a tirade about robberies and assaults.

I wanted to know whether he meant just in Quilmes. I’ve mentioned Quilmes a few times in reference to St George's College, the school where Alistair teaches; however there are also extensive slums just a few blocks away littering the sides of the motorway.

I gaze them in disbelief every time, within the shelter of a bus or car. I know several Latin American countries are renowned for their shanty towns. But in a city like Buenos Aires, which claims to be the "Paris of South America", I’m shocked by the level of poverty virtually on our doorstep.

Corrugated iron covers the buildings lucky enough to have a roof; burned out cars lay abandoned on the edge of the motorway; while pitiful, miserable-looking horses graze among the mounds of garbage. Occasionally you hear their hooves as they pull the carts and their owners who have come to look for anything that may be of value among the rubbish bins in town.  

      

So to answer my questions, no; not just Quilmes, the ice cream parlour owner replied. Everywhere is a problem. According to him, the country has reached the abyss. With the government taking little responsibility for the welfare of the state - not providing decent education, overseeing a crumbling health service due to lack of resources, and running hospitals into the ground, for example – what do you expect? Of course crime will be the order of the day, he said. Just last week, several hospitals in BA went on strike to protest against the poor state of security and the abuse suffered by staff.

The notion of security has become such a part of the psyche that it’s ingrained into the Porteño consciousness. Or maybe we’re the ones being too blasé… Perhaps it’s not such a bad thing to have to go through a few more doors to satisfy my ice cream craving.