Political violence in Argentina paints an unsettling scene

Argentine politics are either so complicated, controversial or seemingly unreal that I have shied away from commentating on the matter. If politics are a quagmire for ordinary Argentines, then I stand little chance of making sense of it. Except when the front-page story talks about fraud, political violence and police repression. 

   

On Sunday, people in Tucumán province went to the polls to elect a new governor. In contention were the Peronist, Front for Victory candidate Juan Manzur (the incumbent party representative and former Secretary of State) and José Cano, from the opposition Radical Civic Union (UCR) party.

Provisional results showed that Mazur has won the elections with 54.4% of the vote, compared with 40.8% for Cano.

Tension and violence 

However, by Tuesday it emerged that the elections had been fraught with tension and violence. Policemen were injured, shots were fired and it turns out that more than 40 ballot boxes had been burned. One ballot box contained 30 FPV ballots even before voting had started. Meanwhile, a cameraman was attacked for filming food bags being delivered in exchange for votes.

Yesterday, national newspapers carried headlines and pictures showing police heavy-handedly breaking up a peaceful protest against the allegedly fraudulent elections. 

Protestors were confronted with tear gas and rubber bullets, leading to several injuries.

Manzur was quick to claim victory. Cano, on the other hand, has demanded that the ballot boxes be opened and the votes fully recounted.

"Not fraud"

As a bystander, it is unnerving to be living in a country where processes and the rule of law are simply disregarded. Even the national electoral director said yesterday in the national newspaper La Nacion that “burning ballot boxes is not fraud, but another type of crime”. 

Argentines do not take this at face value; they have a long tradition of protesting and are often seen banging their saucepans, as judged by the anti-government protests in 2012. However, it is a worrying sign when protests, especially peaceful ones, and free speech begin to be forcefully repressed.

The final vote counting started yesterday at 6pm local time. One can only hope this is a not a precursor of what could happen in the Presidential elections in October. Argentine politics seem to have become a whole lot messier.  

Tango BA: I stand converted

The annual Tango BA and Festival and Dance World Cup is back in Buenos Aires for the seventh year running. Love it or hate it, it’s certainly an expressive, if not impressive dance form. In my six months in BA, I had yet to step foot in a milonga, a place or event where tango is danced, so what better time or place.

Tango BA at Usina del Arte

Amazingly, most, if not all, of the events in the designated venues are free. The Festival started last Friday, 14^th August, and will culminate in the Dance-Floor Tango and Stage Tango Finals on 26^th and 27^th August respectively.

After watching some impromptu tango in San Telmo's ubiquitous Plaza Dorrego, we headed to Usina del Arte (The Arts Factory), in La Boca. The Usina makes a befitting venue, standing proudly on the side of the motorway, beyond the villas, as you approach from Quilmes to Capital.

Modern and cool 

From the inside, the Usina is a modern, cool building that is worth a visit in itself. It was built to mark the area’s industrial strength. This “Palace of Light” was designed by an Italian architect, Giovanni Chiogna, with Neo-Renaissance and Florentine influences. 

Construction started in 1914 and it was inaugurated in 1916. The Usina was home to Ítalo Argentina de Electricidad until 1980, when the company sold the factory to the state. It was finally liquidated in 1997 because of the oversupply of electricity and high maintenance costs. The building was abandoned and left to deteriorate. With the help of various Governors of the city of Buenos Aires, including the incumbent Mauricio Macri, the Usina has been turned into one of the city’s main arts centres.

Coming back to tango, we managed to get tickets for an orchestral performance by tango guitar legend Juanjo Domínguez Cuarteto. I had never heard of him before, and ok it was not quite the tango dancing I had imagined. But he was a cool, old dude who had certainly strummed some guitars in his time.

La Milonga del Dique 0

Right next to the Usina, a temporary milonga, La Milong del Dique 0, nestled under the motorway where you could practice your moves and register for free classes. I was even asked to dance but had to politely decline the offer. Of course I didn’t want to show up everyone else… If only that had been the case.

Tango en vive at la Milonga del Dique 0

For someone who admires tango but was not crazy about it (up until now that it is), this was a good but gentle initiation into this other world. It often seems like such a cliché, but it was actually good fun. From older, sophisticated crooners to some young hipsters strutting their moves, it was hard to tear myself away from the fancy footwork... and more.

Passionate, intense and downright seductive, tango contains all the elements a dance needs. And it doesn’t have to be cheesy. I can see the beginnings of an enduring but also turbulent love affair.  

A sodden Buenos Aires: storms, floods and misery

I have just given my cleaner packets of biscuits as part of a collection for victims who have been badly affected by the floods in Buenos Aires province. Unfortunately, I couldn't think of anything else we owned that could be of use under such tragic circumstances.

I’ve only just realised the enormity of this disaster, having read heart-breaking newspaper reports and seen pictures of people being forced to evacuate their homes.

A week under water, courtesy of Clarin

The front page story in Wednesday’s Clarin, a national Argentine newspaper, reported that six municipalities in the province were under water and that more than 20,000 people had been affected. Yesterday, there were pictures of the river overflowing in Quilmes, the area where we live.

Carrying on the fight 

Sadly, many of the shanty towns, known as villas, are also in Quilmes. A resident from the villa whose job it is to “help” people park their cars for a small fee told me that his area had been flooded, but that they would carry on fighting.

We have gotten off extremely lightly in the face of such desperate situations. Our small front lawn, where the grass has worn away, has turned into a mini pond but thankfully our swimming pool has not overflowed.

I know I should be used to it, coming from England, particularly having just come back from a wet and cold summer. Still, I don’t think I’ve ever seen lightening during mid-morning or heard thunder so deafening loud that our house almost shook with fear.

The storms seem to have been caused by the Sudestada (Southeast blow), a climatic phenomenon that commonly affects the River Plate and the surrounding area. A sudden rotation of cold southern winds create cooler temperatures, heavy rainfall and choppy seas – usually between July and October.

That said, the people I have spoken to have been surprised by how long it has rained. A couple of days, yes, but constant rain for a week on end like this is considered unusual.

An absent government response 

Yet, perhaps what is less surprising is the government’s handling of the situation. Scioli, governor of the Buenos Aires province and also the front-runner of the upcoming presidential elections, helpfully went to Italy during the floods. 

Despite Buenos Aires being an area prone to flooding, in 2014 spending on preventing flooding had fallen to its lowest level since the creation of the funds in 2010.

The rain may have finally stopped, but the politics of the flooding has just started.

A crazy place called home… Back in BAires

We arrived back to Buenos Aires greeted by pouring rain and a power cut… home sweet home! I have just returned after a month in England, our first trip there since we moved to BA six months to the day yesterday.

It’s funny; I've felt pretty settled in BA, hadn’t really missed England, apart from family and friends of course... until we went to England. I’m sure many expats experience this when trying to make a life abroad - where do you call home?

A lodge with a view - Bath, England

When I touched ground at Heathrow airport, it felt like I had never been away. I guess five and a half months is too short for things to change noticeably. I got on the tube with my Oyster card as I used to, berated myself for going shopping district in Oxford Street and didn’t have to plan my conversation before I opened my mouth.

Supermarkets, what a treat

Even going to to shops such as Sainsbury's and Marks and Spencer were a treat… I could buy everything I needed, for decent quality all under one roof. I'm sorry, but now that I'm living abroad, British supermarkets really are among the best in the world. And don't get me started on toiletries at Boots.... I'm pining already. 

I also forget how clean England is, compared with a lot of places. I didn’t have to keep my eyes glued to the floor in case I stepped in something grim, and could admire the pretty English countryside.

  

The weather, unfortunately, was very English. It rained as much in England in July as it had during the whole five and half months I had been in BA. However, when it came to seeing friends and family, it was as if I had just left them five minutes ago. 

I had gone back for two wedding celebrations (my own admittedly). Therefore, I was surrounded by family, some of whom had come from exotic places such as Kenya, Dubai and Belgium as well as friends from various aspects of my life.

Life of a princess 

I was spoilt rotten. I felt like a princess - pampered, fed while my hands and feet were covered in intricate henna designs and was dressed in a total of four incredibly beautiful outfits. What more could a girl want or need… 

A handful of henna

Alas, it was a slightly heavy heart that I returned to BA. Not because I did not want to come back, but because of the thought that I may not see some people again, as in elderly relatives, or events that I’ll most certainly miss out on.

So while I returned to a damp BA, I must remember that sun will start to shine more brightly in BA than in England in the months ahead. And when I think about home, why limit myself to one home when I can have two.