25th of May 2015: Celebrating independence, personalities... and art

I have stayed clear of Argentine politics, largely because I don’t understand it. Beyond the presidential elections due to take place later this year, and knowing the names of the forerunners, politics here is a labyrinth. So why do I bring up the subject now? Because yesterday was 25^th of May, the 205^th anniversary marking the movement that led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. “But what exactly are they celebrating?” asked an article on the bicentenary five years ago.

A good question, especially in the context of recent events that have shaped Argentina’s society, economics, politics and its view of the world.

Kirchner Culture Centre at night, courtesy of Infobae

For Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, current President of the nation, this will be the last time she presides over the annual commemorations. Not one to be known for her demure stature, she is determined to go down as one of the greats in Argentine politics and turned the focus of this year’s celebrations to herself, unsurprisingly.

In her attempt to leave an enduring legacy, last week she unveiled the Kirchner Cultural Centre, marking 12 years of the Kirchners’ rule since her husband Néstor Kirchner became president in 2003. Housed in the renovated central post office building, it certainly looks impressive. The “Blue Whale”, the heart of the Centre which can seat up to 1,750 people, and the permanent “Nestor Kirchner” room on the second floor are just a couple of the features.

The idea of converting the post office building into a culture centre, originally called the Bicentenary Cultural Centre, was intended to celebrate the bicentenary since independence. In, 2012, the government decided to rename the Centre to the Néstor Kirchner Cultural Centre, and now just simply the Kirchner Cultural Centre (CCCK bordering on the crass perhaps). 

    

According to CFK, the aim of the Centre is to enable all Argentines to access culture, through a wide, diverse and high-quality programme. Judging from the programme over the next two weeks, there is a decent list of educational, arts and music events, notwithstanding the iconic Eva Perón being a prominent subject of discussion.

A noble aim, I agree, and why not create a cultural centre for future generations to enjoy? The cynic in me would say that the Centre bearing the incumbent’s name may be remembered for all the reasons but culture. On the other hand, if 25^th of May is about celebrating independence, maybe some independence from politics is duly welcome. Like I said, I don’t understand Argentine politics. 

Castillo de Mandl: affordable luxury in the Sierras of Córdoba

In my previous post I mentioned that I would write about Castillo de Mandl, a hotel in the delightful town of La Cumbre in the Sierras of Córdoba. 

If you want a few days of complete relaxation, soaking up the ambience of the Sierras, or a base for a more action-packed break, El Castillo is an enchanting and very reasonably-priced spot. Thank you, Alistair, for treating us to some luxury after the hair-pulling experience we encountered upon our arrival to Córdoba.

Bliss!

Castillo, on a hilltop just outside La Cumbre town centre, is every bit a castle as the name suggests. While the gravelly, potholed path was a bit of an effort in our Renault Clio, the arched pathway was a nice welcome to our temporary home.

The view from within and of the surrounding countryside was magical. With the magnificent windows adorning the dining/living room; plush sofas, beautiful antique furniture; and bright and airy bedrooms, you know grandeur when you see it.  

A grand history

And this is not just on appearances alone; the history of the Castillo is pretty grand too. It was originally built as a summer home in 1930 by Bartolomé Vasallo, a doctor from Roasario, and soon became an architectural feature in La Cumbre. He donated the castle to the town of La Cumbre, which then auctioned it owing to the high maintenance costs.

By virtue of the new owner, Friedrich Mandl, Castillo was completely remodelled. The interiors was furnished by the French designer Jean Michel Frank, regarded as one of the most influential designers in the 1930s. From the outside, the turrets were removed to make the Castillo look more like a residence and less obviously like a castle. 

Fritz Mandl, an Austrian arms dealer, was quite the character. He arrived in Argentina as a refugee in 1938, following the expropriation of his property when Austria was annexed by Nazi Germany. Mendl, a prominent fascist and admirer of Mussolini, became an eminent member of Argentine society. He was an advisor to Juan Peron and tried his hand as a film producer, among other careers. If that wasn't enough, his second wife (out of five) was the Austrian, and later Hollywood, actress Hedy Lamarr.

Upon his death in Vienna in 1977, the Castillo was closed and only reopened to the public 30 years later. 

Space, glorious space

Set in grounds of around 11 hectares and with just 13 rooms, we had all the space, and peace and quiet, to do as little or as much as we pleased.

Transportation: I would definitely recommend hiring a car if you plan to visit nearby sites, to see the sun setting over the mountains or just for a bit of an adventure over the rugged mountainous roads.      

Heaven on Earth

Nearby attractions: Apart from the beautiful scenery, there is a good amount of things to do and see, including:

• Hand-gliding - We weren't brave enough but La Cumbre is famous for hand-gliding experiences. Whether or not you decide to give it a go, the view from Cerro Mirador, the launch pad, is worth a trip in itself.

• Jesuit estancias - Providing you have a car, the Jesuit estancia trail is well worth a visit, offering a glimpse into some of the earliest settlements in Argentina. Estancia Santa Catalina is probably the prettiest, while Jesús María is the best preserved.

• Hikes - Climb the steps up to Cristo Redentor and carry on to Dique San Jerónimo, the first arched dam built in South America in 1942. On the way back, you'll walk past Estancia El Rosario, which was originally part of Estancia Santa Catalina, but has been producing artesanal foods since 1924. The route is not sign-posted but Castillo will give you a map.       

Rates: We went off-season, at the end of April, and paid roughly £65 (just over AR$1000) for a double room, including breakfast.They also provide dinner (at an additional cost) and cater for all requirements, including our nightmare celiac and vegetarian combo.

Who said you have to pay the earth for a bit of luxury…

For more information, visit: http://www.elcastillodemandl.com/eng/cumbre.php

Chaos and confusion in Córdoba: a bumpy ride from start to finish

We had high hopes for our week-long break in Córdoba. Romantic, cool, charming and historic was how we had imagined Argentina’s second largest city and the surrounding Sierras. To some extent it was all these things; what we had not envisioned was the ensuing chaos that lay ahead.

Don’t get me wrong; it was a week full of hilarity, fun, and culture. I love being in Argentina, and I write this post slightly tongue in cheek; however, it’s a reminder of some of the frustrations we have grown accustomed to in the three months of our life here so far – unreliability, deliberate misunderstandings and a genuine lack of responsibility. Si, bienvenidos.

The road to nowhere

Day 1: Our woes begin as soon as we arrive at Córdoba bus terminal at 7.30am two Sundays ago, dishevelled and groggy eyed after having taken the overnight bus from Buenos Aires. We were due to meet our car hire guy from Alquiler de Autos Córdoba at 8am (we had done in-depth research into local hire car firms). An hour later we are still waiting. Of course, he just happens to be in the neighbouring town of Carlos Paz, about 40km/50 minutes from the city of Córdoba. This is despite an entire email conversation dating back to March saying we would meet in Córdoba city.

After a few conversations in my trying-but-failing-to-be-aggressive Spanish we resignedly set off for Carlos Paz. It is a pretty lakeside town in the province of Cordoba where we could have easily whittled away a few hours in the baking sun, but the principle got the better of us.

We head off in our Renault Clio to La Cumbre, a lovely town in the Punilla Valley in Córdoba province, to Castillo de Mandl, a beautiful hotel set on a little hilltop. What a saving grace! (It deserves a separate post).

Day 2: Eager to explore more of La Cumbre, we decide to hire some bikes. We stumble upon what can best be described as a shack with a Rent Bikes sign. 10.30am and surprise, surprise the door is shut. We call the owner who informs us he is not in the vicinity but would call his “manager” to let us in. A sleepy Juan opens the door and we eventually manage to rent two kids’ mountain bikes, helmets and a map from him.

“Take your time, come back whenever you want. Just call me and I’ll come back to the shop.”

We make it back in town around 4.30pm and call Juan. No answer. I try the owner. Ok, he’ll be there in 10 minutes, he reckons. More than half an hour later, we’re still waiting, and increasingly tempted to leave the bikes outside exposed to the elements (he didn’t give us any padlocks).

Day 3: Time to take the Renault for a spin and test its mettle as we venture to the fascinating Unesco world heritage Jesuit estancias, representing one of the earliest settlements in Argentina. First on our circuit is the Unesco-listed Museo Jesuitico Nacional de Jesús Maria, conveniently located in the town of Jesús Maria.

It is one of the most intact estancias, with a splendid collection of pre-Hispanic archaeological and ethnographical artefacts, religious art and other relics. All very well but getting there is the tricky part. It is a world heritage site, yet half the major roads leading to it are blocked off and once we finally arrive in Jesús Maria, there are no signs to the site itself. What a mission.

Day 5: Back in Córdoba and it’s Labour day so of course everything is shut, including the cathedral.

Córdoba, you’ve done me in. Surely it's time for a holiday now.